Sight Seeing in Swaziland

EZULWINI VALLEY -- Ezulwini, dubbed the "Place of Heaven," is a showcase of Swaziland's astonishing natural beauty and the center of entertainment for the nation. In addition to the Mlilwane Game Sanctuary (see also Game Reserves), this lush valley is home to hot natural mineral springs. Less naturalistic experiences can be had at some of the valley's resorts and casinos. They offer golfing, tennis, nightlife, gambling and horseback riding. 5 mi/8 km southeast of Mbabane.

GAME RESERVES -- In spite of the small size of Swaziland, its game reserves feature different terrains and climates. And though the reserves are almost pocket-sized, they each hold a surprising variety of species. At least two nights could be spent at any of the following reserves:

Ehlane Wildlife Sanctuary -- While not as scenic as other parks (acacia bushveldt predominates), Ehlane has some of the best game-viewing in Swaziland. Up to 10,000 animals gather during the dry season. This park also has excellent accommodations. 43 mi/70 km east of Mbabane.

Malolotja (Malolotsha) National Park -- Encompassing 70 sq mi/181 sq km of mountainous terrain, Malolotja is Swaziland's largest reserve. Rather rustic tourist accommodations have recently been developed at Malolotja, which features impalas, reedbucks and wildebeest. Also worth seeing are Malolotja Falls, with a drop of 300 ft/911/2 m. 15 mi/24 km northwest of Mbabane.

Mbabane Nature Reserve -- Huge granite outcrops in this park provide a unique setting for game-viewing. 6 mi/ 10 km north of Mbabane.

Mkhaya Nature Reserve -- Swaziland's newest reserve is small (24 sq mi/62 sq km), but its open savannah provides an excellent venue for viewing a wide variety of game. Antelopes, elephants, hippos, ostriches and steenbok are but a few of the creatures to be seen. 40 mi/64 km southeast of Mbabane.

Mlawula Nature Reserve -- This hilly park features zebras, leopards, impala, kudus, duikers and introduced species such as giraffes, cheetahs, ostriches and white rhinos. Campsites are the only accommodations. 50 mi/80 km east of Mbabane, on the eastern edge of Ehlane.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary -- In the Ezulwini Valley (see separate paragraph), Mlilwane can be toured by horseback, on foot or by car to see white rhinos, giraffes, crocodiles and zebras. The level of accommodations ranges from good to deluxe. 5 mi/8 km south of Mbabane.

Ndzindza Nature Reserve -- In the mountains overlooking Mozambique, this reserve features an interesting ironwood forest and large termite mounds. 56 mi/90 km east of Mbabane.

LOBAMBA -- Plan about an hour in this legislative capital to visit the House of Parliament and the National Museum (where Swazi traditions and culture are featured). The Ludzidzini Royal Residence, site of the Umhlanga and Ncwala ceremonies (see also Potpourri), is on Lozitha Road. 10 mi/16 km southeast of Mbabane.

MANZINI -- We suggest blowing through Manzini at the maximum speed limit -- even that may not be fast enough. The town (pop. 14,000) is very industrial and, in our view, the only blemish on the entire country. If you absolutely must stop, do so on a Thursday or Friday morning, when the local market is held. Nearby is the locally acclaimed Mantegna Falls. 20 mi/32 km southeast of Mbabane.

MBABANE -- Swaziland's principal city (pop. 50,000) is a pleasant place to stay while preparing to tour the rest of the country. Its lovely shopping area -- Swazi Plaza -- is filled with trees, flowers and stores. Mbabane is a popular gambling destination for South Africans. The town itself can be seen in a day, but it's a good base for excursions (most of the deluxe hotels in the country are in Mbabane). Nightlife revolves around the casino.


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