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May 1 to September 30
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Exploring the U.S Southwest and West Coast Desert Regions and Botanical Gardens :
Tales from the front seat of a U-Haul Truck
December 2002,
by Phil Reilly, Reilly's Country Gardens Nursery
Running a nursery keeps us pretty close to home most of the season. We try hard not to show our envy when we hear about the exotic gardens our customers have visited. But every once in a while we do get a chance to get to wander afar. The story which follows, of Phils recent trip across the southern-most portions of the US, has a unique twist.
A loyal customer recently proposed that I visit their new California home. Drive a U-Haul truck load of furniture and well pay your way was the offer. An expense-paid opportunity to visit 12 major botanical gardens, 4 U.S. National Parks, a winery and a couple of wholesale nurseries looked do-able!
Six weeks later, with the nursery adequately winterised ahead of the usual schedule, I was on the road.
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Meet Matilda
My first chore was to learn how to control Waltzing Matilda - my 45-foot long truck and trailer combination: home on wheels for 4200 miles over 11 days in late November through mid December, 2002.
Matilda unfortunately was overloaded and her response to bumpy or uneven roads was to start a disturbing gyration at speeds over 55 miles an hour. This dance was actually quite life-threatening, for unchecked, the gyration amplitude quickly increased to unnerving proportions: enough to potentially send the vehicle off the road. This never happened, but the first days driving taught me that the danger was real. I had to be on guard for long, down-hill grades where Matilda wanted to gain speed to ease her next up-hill challenge. Valley bottoms often have curved bridges over rivers so I was constantly reining her in. Keeping her from jumping over bridge guardrails was a constant concern. I had to learn to drive at 55 miles per hour (90 kph to us Canadians) no matter how perfect the road seemed.
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Phil and Matilda.
At 11 feet tall and approaching 45 feet long, Matilda proved to be a handful!
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Being a rookie truck driver, I wanted to avoid snow and ice driving conditions at all costs. While a path through Denver, Colorado and Las Vegas, Nevada was clearly the shortest from the Ottawa area, I didnt want to give Matilda more opportunities than necessary to test my driving skills. Instead, we opted for a more southerly, but longer, route. We crossed into the U.S. east of Lake Ontario at Ogdensburg, New York and then went south of Lakes Ontario and Erie to connect with Interstate 40 at Nashville, Tennessee, then westward through Arkansas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Texas, and Arizona, and emerging into California south of San Jose just east of Los Angeles.
Trip pre-planning included time searching the internet for stops suitable for the11-foot tall Matilda. I did not want to rip down motels covered portico entrances or peel off Matildas roof. Its amazing how often rookie RVers do this I was told by one motel owner whose portico still bore the damage of an inexperienced driver. Truck stops have also taken on a new shine; they have good food and often the cheapest fuel. The Flying J is the best of them in my opinion. Keeping in touch with home is downright easy when you frequent the Flying J: telephones are at every table.
My first four days were pure driving challenges. I drove five and six hundred miles a day to, as quickly as possible, get to the areas I wanted to explore. On this outing I was intent on exploring mountainous desert regions and Californias numerous botanical gardens. Consequently, many worthy ecosystems and botanical gardens were by-passed simply due to lack of time.
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Rio Grande Botanic Gardens
Our first botanical garden exploration coincided with our early morning arrival at Albuquerque, New Mexico.
I needed a coffee break and Matilda needed gas when I saw the sign to the Rio Grande Botanic Garden. We had just negotiated the blander U.S. version of the Rocky Mountain Range (the Canadian Rockies around Banff are much more dramatic) and the opportunity to look at some labelled vegetation appealed.
But first I had to find a way past the locked entrance gate; at 7:30 a.m. it was much too early for normal visitors hours. A security guard came out to question my early-morning presence in the parking lot (a truck and trailer might have meant thievery potential, I suppose). I flashed my nursery business card, and pleaded for him to phone someone with the authority to give me access to the gardens. Success! Three hours later, as the first paying visitors arrived, I happily volunteered to pay my $3.00 exit fee.
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On film were, ornamental grass-lined ponds (at left), a Moorish garden reflecting early settlers gardening influences, and native New Mexico cacti and desert plants.
This bronze artwork also caught my attention.
The Rio Grande Botanic Gardens should be a must stop for botanically inclined westward-travelling tourists.
Visit http://www.cabq.gov/biopark/garden/ for background info on this garden.
I did not have a chance to explore their still-locked modern conservatory ( at left) and unique Childrens Garden.
Matilda and I finally got our high-test top-ups in Albuquerques Spanish-styled downtown area before again heading westward on Interstate-40.
Old Route 66 beckoned for exploration, but on this trip I ignored the many exits from I-40 to the historic settlement trail from Chicago to Los Angeles,. Route 66 maps and historical information can be found at http://www.historic66.com/index.html.
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Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona
A few hours east of Flagstaff, Arizona, Matilda and I ventured off I-40 into Arizonas colourful Painted Desert badlands and archaeologically interesting Petrified Forest National Park.
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We wended our way around the preserves in setting sun conditions. This was perfect for photography of the pinnacles long shadows. The orange evening light accentuated the ochre and yellow-banded soils.
The 200 million year old Petrified Forest dramatically illustrated that prehistoric lakes and tropical forests had once inundated the high western desert regions. Uplifting by the collision of underground tectonic plates and millions of years of soil erosion subsequently exposed prehistoric petrified tree-remains for us to see. Not quite a botanical garden, these rock-like remnants, but a geological/botanical point-of-interest nevertheless.
For those looking to buy a unique slice of polished petrified wood suitable for making a coffee table, there is a store/ museum at the parks southern exit. Toonie-sized pieces cost about $10 and coffee table-sized slabs about the price of a new computer. We deliver! the clerk told me when I mentioned that my return home was by plane.
Information on the Petrified Forest National Park can be viewed at: http://www.desertusa.com/pet/index.html
View petrified wood slices at: http://www.petrifiedwood.com/ .
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The Grand Canyon, Arizona
No trip across Arizona would be complete without a visit to the Grand Canyon.
A 6:00 a.m. start from Flagstaff was intended to catch the rising sun highlighting inner canyon pinnacles. However, Matilda & I experienced dense fog caused by the cold of snow on the ground as we climbed to the south rims 8000 plus foot elevation. I could hardly see 25 feet in front of Matilda. A decision to bide some time in the expectation that the fog would dissipate paid off. I slept for an hour in Matildas cramped front seat and spent another hour wandering through the ruins of an archaeologically important 800 year-old Tusayan Indian pueblo (I learned that a pueblo is actually an organized village).
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Eventually, around noon, the fog broke and the canyons grandeur began to be revealed. Even though it was still somewhat hazy, I shot a roll of film trying to capture the realities of distance and depth of one of the worlds seven natural wonders.
I never did get the perfect shot.
My 4-hour visit was just enough time to convince me to come back for at least a 2-day stay another trip, Perhaps I should have purchased the annual All National Parks pass at $50 as I knew other national parks were yet to be encountered the further west I drove. I however chose the $10 entrance fee option.
Visit http://www.desertusa.com/gc/gc_desc.html as a start to planning a trip to the Grand Canyon.
After a light lunch in the grocery/delicatessen store in Grand Canyon Village, we headed south and west en route to Californias Joshua Tree National Park.
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The Historic London Bridge, Lake Havasu City, Arizona
Next we travelled east of the southward flowing Colorado River, on Arizonas Route 95, to Lake Havasu City. Our introduction to this lakeside winter haven was a low, thick cloud of Californias infamous eastward-travelling smog.
The tourist centre duty-person ducked my question of how frequent this phenomenon occurred. She artfully and enthusiastically pointed me to the nearby London Bridge the citys claim to fame. The relocation of Englands historic London Bridge to this inland site is, in my mind, a bit presumptuous, but it is a tourist feature none-the-less! At a 1968 purchase cost of $2.5 million dollars and another $7 million for relocation costs, a developer had a theme to attract potential purchasers.
http://www.desertusa.com/mag98/aug/stories/lkhav.html has more info. on the London Bridge.
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| Once across the Colorado River south of the Parker Dam, more high-elevation desert terrain had to be crossed. I really never tired of the desert, but then I wasnt experiencing the summer reality of scorching temperatures.
The beginning of Californias Route 62, a minor highway which runs straight as a die across the desert, saw a California Department of Agriculture inspection officer ask me to expose Matildas contents for possible agricultural products and associated pests. This was the only time in our trip that anyone challenged our load. Even at Ogdensburg, New York, our U.S. entry point, the inspection hinged solely on the well-documented, 4-page, manifest of Matilda's load.
As I opened Matildas garage-like rear door, items of furniture started to tumble out and lodge against the door; road vibrations and bumps had simply dislodged a few items and no damage was being done we learned upon unpacking.
Better shut er up I was told. "Don't think there's much room for living plants in there!" and then "Have a good trip" this man of few words said as he ambled back to his chair propped against the inspection centre's wall.
So much for inspection thoroughness!
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